Rome, the Eternal City, has an enduring appeal – a city dense with ancient history, remarkable architecture, a unique pace of life (always time for coffee!) and fabulous food. The number of tourists, however, is ever growing and can make the city feel overwhelming.

On a recent trip to Rome, our boutique hotel, Portrait Roma, proved a salutary reminder that small is beautiful – and with a tranquil place to retreat, you can enjoy the city at your own pace.

While a boutique hotel provides relief from hectic crowds, service is also critical, including excellent local intel so you can tap into the best places to eat and learn what’s new and happening.

Portrait Roma works well for both holidays and business trips. There are no lobbies piled high with group luggage or masses of tourists filling the bar, no queues at reception, or tourist buses blocking the front entrance.

The term ‘boutique’ is often used loosely, but we’re talking about genuinely small  – 10 to 30 rooms or suites – with unique character and exemplary service.

Located at the heart of Rome, near the base of the famed Spanish Steps, Portrait Roma has just 14 suites. Part of the Ferragamo family’s Lungarno Collection, it’s a subdued haven literally ‘above the shop’. The hotel is situated above Ferragamo’s Rome boutique, in one of the world’s most exclusive shopping enclaves.

The Ferragamo family’s design and craftsmanship credentials shine through. More elegant mansion than standard hotel, Portrait Roma is an oasis of calm.

Memorabilia from Salvatore Ferragamo himself, as well as illustrations and black and white photos of Ferragamo’s elegant shoe designs on the walls, are evocative. The palette is one of gentle grays and warm neutrals. Drapes are lined with inimitable Ferragamo print fabrics, from dusty pinks to citrus yellow and a sublime green.

Our suite included a cleverly concealed kitchen pantry, a marble bathroom (with Ferragamo toiletries) and a spacious walk-in wardrobe. Some suites have a small balcony.

Anticipating your needs, a questionnaire is sent before you arrive, asking what drinks you might prefer, what music you want in the room, pillow preferences, turn-down time and more. We arrived in the evening, and a welcoming aperitivo was waiting for us, plus delicious spuntini (snacks), fresh fruit and chocolates and a cool jazz soundtrack.

The hotel’s guests-only rooftop terrace, with views of the city and its iconic sights, is an enviable place to start the day.

Our Italian breakfast starred maritozzi (Rome’s iconic cream-loaded brioche buns from celebrity baker Roscioli), seasonal fruits, homemade tortes, local cheeses and charcuterie, or you can opt for breakfast cooked to order. The food was exceptional, and the service was second to none. No rush, no hustle and no crowd at the buffet.

The rooftop terrace is also perfect for aperitivo or after-dinner drinks, with glittering views of Rome, including the towers of the Trinità dei Monti church at the top of the Spanish Steps. The terrace is intimate and elegant, with comfortable sofas and shelves of design books to dip into.

Portrait Roma’s lifestyle team arranges bespoke itineraries (a private cruise on the Tiber, perhaps?) and shares insider info on what’s happening in the city. The hotel manager, Gianluca Vallerotonda, oversees everything with meticulous care and inimitable Roman style. It’s a wonderful way to experience Rome.

↠ lungarnocollection.com/portraitroma

Small but special

Rome does small, four- and five-star boutique hotels very well. Here are two other options.

J.K. PLACE ROMA

J.K. Place has hotels in elite locations, including Capri, Florence, Paris and Rome. These people know just what they are doing – the ambience and attention to detail are flawless.

J.K. Place Roma has 27 rooms and suites of understated but exemplary luxury. The hotel is in Rome’s former school of architecture, near the historic Spanish Steps, but once inside, you feel a world away from the hustle and bustle.

Design is polished and supremely comfortable – a contemporary Italian aesthetic with jewel-toned colors, tailored seating, marble sculptures and design books to browse. Guest rooms are just as elegant but follow more subdued palettes.

The all-day cafe serves top-notch food with a focus on classic Italian and seasonal cuisine. Excellent room service and a stylish but cozy modernist bar. Above all, the service is impeccable – you feel warmly welcomed and never rushed.

This is a place to retreat in style while experiencing all the Eternal City has to offer.

↠ jkplaces.com

HOTEL DE’ RICCI   

Another small-scale Roman hideaway, Hotel De’ Ricci has just eight suites and a slightly bohemian feel, along with loads of character and exceptional service.

The hotel sits on a cobbled street near Piazza de’ Ricci, away from the madding crowd but only a 20-minute walk from many major sights.

The style is a touch retro with a smattering of vintage furnishings – think art deco drinks carts and Eames chairs – paired with distinctive colors. Some suites have a terrace or a balcony.

Wine buffs will love the glamorous Charade Bar. The hotel is known for its extensive wine cellar, which comes with a sommelier – although they also mix a perfect Negroni.

There is no restaurant, but breakfast, lunch and dinner can be ordered through room service all day, and the concierge team is passionate about the latest food and wine happenings in Rome. The team can also organize anything from private museum tours to luxurious in-room spa treatments.

Hotel De’ Ricci is small but special, offering an authentic take on life in Rome.

↠ hoteldericci.com