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In the heart of the remote Southern Cardamom National Park, Shinta Mani Wild offers more than opulent tented suites and fine dining. Conceived by visionary designer Bill Bensley, this one-of-a-kind camp immerses guests in jungle adventures while championing conservation, community and the preservation of one of South-East Asia’s last great wildernesses.
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I am in the best of company in my tented home away from home, which pays homage to respected conservationists at Shinta Mani Wild in Cambodia’s remote Southern Cardamon National Park.

Antique steamer trunks emblazoned with famous names – including Sir Laurens van der Post, Sir David Attenborough, Theodore Roosevelt Jr, Dr Jane Goodall and Steve Irwin – are displayed on nearby shelves.

This luxury sanctuary, known as the Great Conservationists tent, is one of 15 strung along the riverside and also has a library of books by the noted authors. Flicking through the pages is the perfect way to idle a few hours away on the timber deck, serenaded by birdsong and, every so often, a high-pitched gibbon call.

Nature at its finest

Bill Bensley, creator of this opulent tented reserve that’s slap bang in the middle of 350 hectares of untamed jungle where nature rules in all her glory, is passionate about this place.

Located 90-minute drive from Phnom Penh, there’s certainly nothing ordinary about his amazing camp. Even my front door key has a pen knife attached.

Just how many shades of green are there in this magnificent rain forest?

Bensley, a vivacious hotel designer and landscape architect based in Bangkok, describes himself as a plucky wanderer and lover of all things wild, and his enthusiasm is infectious.

He and a business partner rescued this land that he describes as one of the last great wilderness areas in South-East Asia, years ago.

His aim is to protect the fragile environment, stop illegal poaching and logging and provide work for locals, trained at the Shinta Mani Foundation.

Adventure with a focus on preservation

Bensley has created a place that’s both whimsical – the detail and decor leave you in awe – but it also carries a serious message about conservation and how precious this environment is.

The adventure starts as soon as you arrive. You can enjoy a staged entry via a 400-meter zip line from a lofty tower; however, an unscheduled electrical thunderstorm put an end to that plan.

My stay is curated by a Bensley Butler, Seiha Oung, who addresses me politely as Bong Sue, a respectful Cambodian term for an elder.

The adventure starts as soon as you arrive – you can enjoy a staged entry via a 400-meter zip line from a lofty tower.

Activities include mountain biking, a jungle trek, foraging, Khmer cooking sessions and spa treatments in this magical mystical rainforest. Adventure cruising along secret river backwaters and a wildlife anti-poaching expedition are other options.

As I ponder my choices, loud thunder crashes, lightning strikes and the heavens open, so I follow the stepping stones to the Khmer Tonics Spa, which offers all-natural treatments and wellness experiences.

An hour later I emerge and feel as fresh as the rain-drenched surrounds, and in tune with the wonders of nature as plump raindrops shimmer on fresh green growth and tiny delicate pink orchids open to the world.

Guided exploration in the jungle

Next day it’s an early morning cruise on the expedition boat along the upper Srey Ambel Estuary and connecting waterways, where I am soon fully immersed in the exotic landscape.

It’s one of several specially built boats where guests can laze on a daybed, spot birds, fish, kayak and enjoy a sandbank picnic. There’s silence, except for the occasional bird chatter as we drift down the river, eyes peeled and senses heightened.

Later, I take a dip in the cool waters of the 30-meter pool called the Cistern, where jungle water reflections are mesmerizing.

I am then ready for an interesting forage walk and talk with executive chef Bernard Garth Hartzenberg, who describes the jungle as his Cambodian larder, as he unveils the rich landscape.

I take a dip in the cool waters of the 30-meter pool called the Cistern, where jungle water reflections are mesmerizing.

Local guide Sarorn digs for wild potato, plucks tiny edible flowers, picks sour leaves, gathers red ants, plus wild galangal roots, sour leaf, cardamom seeds and stems.

A visit to the organic farm with a free-range chicken run, vegetable and herb garden, hydroponics section and plant nursery showcases the camp’s commitment to sustainability. And a cache of chainsaws and traps are displayed at the camp to remind guests of successful poaching raids that have confiscated equipment to protect the precious natural environment.

Funded by the Shinta Mani Foundation, the camp’s ranger station enables the nonprofit Wildlife Alliance to do vital conservation work.

Fine dining, unique atmosphere

Before I dine at the open-air Headquarters restaurant, it’s sundowner time at the picturesque Landing Zone Bar. The rattle of a cocktail shaker competes with the constant roar of the nearby Raging Big Sister Waterfall.

Bensley has created a haven here with an eclectic display of bric-a-brac and objets d’art. Plonk yourself down on vintage French chairs or the caramel leather couch and leaf through old hardcover books that are stacked everywhere. Coffee table editions entice you to open them and enjoy.

The decor is captivating, with antique rocking horses hanging from rafters evoking childhood memories while old movie cameras covered in vines add to the theatrical ambiance. Green-colored daybeds with pops of bright yellow cushions invite you to relax and take it easy.

Dining is an adventure – think fresh, delicious and beautifully presented cuisine. Months later, the river prawn oka with coconut broth, avocado, water lily, cocktail tomatoes, coriander oil, lemongrass and turmeric caviar remains memorable.

Cured duck breast and sous vide snakehead fish wrapped in nori, served with wildflower salad, cucumber and pandan broth is another standout. The desserts are all works of art and taste even better than they look.

Dining is an adventure – think fresh, delicious and beautifully presented cuisine.

I am escorted nightly by my Bensley Butler to my tent, lamplight in hand, which I liken to stepping into Aladdin’s cave. It too is full of treasures that Bensley and his team have collected over the years.

Jungle and animal prints adorn the sofa and chairs, an old trunk has been resurrected as a coffee table and the signature ‘Bensley’ look stars.

A large dining table and crystal bottles filled with gin, whiskey and brandy on a sideboard create a fancy outdoor dining area.

In candlelight, I slip into the deep outdoor bathtub that looks a little like a fancy ice bucket and find myself immersed in the scenery.

Just how many shades of green are there in this magnificent rainforest?

My high bed of carved dark Khmer wood has steps for me to climb, and I fall asleep to the melody of waterfall under a sky bursting with stars, with a deep appreciation of this untamed land and the need to preserve it for the future.

For more information, visit shintamani.com/wild

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